Pickles

Indian pickles are preserved with salt, oil and spice, then matured for weeks until the fruit softens and the flavours marry. The north calls them achar, Tamil Nadu oorugai, Andhra uragaya, and Sri Lanka achcharu, and each region has its own oil and spice blend. This part of pickles, pastes and sauces gathers them by fruit and by region.

Mango pickle is the one most homes keep open, cut in chunks or grated into thokku. Lime pickle is sharp and salty, and belongs with curd rice and parathas. Andhra pickles include gongura, the sour roselle leaf, and fiery avakaya. Sri Lankan pickles are sweeter and made with vinegar, and mixed pickle puts carrot, lime, mango and chilli in one jar. Garlic and chilli pickles have their own pages for anyone who likes things strong.

Choose by oil and heat. Mustard oil pickles are pungent and belong with Punjabi food; gingelly oil pickles are nuttier and suit South Indian meals; vinegar pickles are brighter and go with rice and curry or a sandwich. Garlic and chilli pickles are the strongest of all, so a small jar lasts a long time.

Keep pickle jars closed, cool and out of sunlight. If the oil level drops below the fruit after months of use, top it up with a little oil of the same type, warmed and cooled first, so the pieces stay covered and keep well.