Bay Leaves

Bay leaves are the dried leaves of aromatic evergreen trees, simmered or fried whole and removed before eating. In Hindi they are tej patta, and in Tamil they are often called biryani ilai, the biryani leaf. They are used in pulao, biryani, rajma, chole, kormas, dal makhani and garam masala, and in Bengali payesh and some other sweets.

The Indian bay leaf, from a cassia-type tree, is long and broad with three veins running lengthwise and has a mild cinnamon and clove scent. The European bay laurel leaf is smaller and more herbal. Both are sold as bay leaves, and either will do in most Indian recipes, though tej patta gives a warmer, sweeter note. Choose leaves that are whole and olive green, since brittle brown ones have lost their oils.

Tear or crumple a bay leaf slightly before frying it in oil for a few seconds, until it darkens and smells fragrant. Remove it before serving, since the leaf stays tough. Kept dry and sealed, bay leaves hold their aroma for about a year. Pair them with cinnamon and cloves from the whole spices, and use them in a basmati rice pulao.