Toor Dal

Toor dal is the yellow split pigeon pea, and it is the dal most South and West Indian homes cook every day. In Tamil Nadu it is thuvaram paruppu and the backbone of sambar; in Gujarat it becomes a sweet and sour dal with jaggery, kokum and peanuts; in Maharashtra it is varan, served plain with rice and ghee at festival meals. It sits alongside moong dal and chana dal in our dals collection.

You will see it sold oily and unoily. Oily toor has a light coating of oil, applied to protect it in storage, so it needs washing in warm water two or three times until the water no longer looks cloudy or slick. Unoily toor only needs a normal rinse. Both cook the same once clean: about three whistles in a pressure cooker, or forty minutes on the hob after a short soak.

For a smooth sambar, mash the cooked dal with a whisk or the back of a ladle while it is still hot, then stir it into the tamarind and vegetable broth. If you cook it often, a large bag keeps well in an airtight tub for months, and a smaller pack is plenty for learning the dish. Toor pairs naturally with a tempering of mustard seed, curry leaves and a spoon of urad dal fried golden in oil.