Tinned Fish

Tinned jack mackerel is one of the most used foods in a Sri Lankan kitchen, where it goes by the name tin fish. It is firm, meaty fish packed in brine, natural juice, water or tomato sauce, and it holds together well in a curry. The same tin becomes fish cutlets, the crumbed, spiced croquettes served at every party, and the filling for fish buns and Chinese rolls from the bakery. Alongside mackerel you will find tuna chunks in spring water for sandwiches and salads, and ready-to-eat Sri Lankan dishes in the tin.

Ambulthiyal is a southern Sri Lankan fish curry, sour with goraka and dark with black pepper, cooked until almost dry so that it keeps for days. Tinned tuna and sprat ambulthiyal and tempered spicy tuna and sprats are ready to spoon onto rice. For a fresh curry, drain a tin of mackerel in brine, fry onion, curry leaves, green chilli and Sri Lankan curry powder, add tomato and a little coconut milk, then fold in the fish gently so it stays in pieces.

For cutlets, mash the drained fish with boiled potato, onion, chilli and pepper, roll into balls, dip in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until golden. See the rest of the shelf under fish, including dried fish and prawns and Maldive fish, and season with Jaffna curry powder or goraka.