Tinned Chickpeas

Chickpeas come in two kinds in South Asian cooking. Kabuli chana are the large, pale chickpeas known across the world, used for Punjabi chole, chana masala, chaat and hummus. Kala chana, or black chickpeas, are smaller with a dark skin and a firmer, nuttier bite. They are cooked dry with spices for Navratri and Ashtami prasad with puri and halwa, and in the South they become sundal, tossed with mustard seed, curry leaves and grated coconut. Both are sold here already boiled, including jumbo chickpeas that stay whole in a long simmer.

For chole, fry onion, tomato and chole masala, add the rinsed chickpeas with a little water, then mash a few against the pan to thicken. A dried amla or a black tea bag in the pot gives the deep colour of restaurant chole. For chaat, simply toss drained chickpeas with onion, tomato, chaat masala, lemon and tamarind chutney. Standard tins suit a family meal, and larger tins and catering sizes are useful for parties and takeaways.

Keep the drained liquid if you bake: aquafaba whips into a meringue-like foam. Beans live next door under tinned beans, part of tinned beans and chickpeas. If you prefer dried, see dried chickpeas and kala chana, and for seasoning try chole and chana masala.