Tamarind & Goraka

Sourness matters as much as heat in South Asian cooking, and these two fruits provide much of it. Tamarind is the sticky brown pulp of a tropical pod, sweet and sour at once. Goraka is the dried rind of a small fruit related to the mangosteen, darker and smokier in its sourness, and central to Sri Lankan and Kerala fish curries. Both live in the pickles, pastes and sauces department.

Tamarind, also known as imli, puli and siyambala, comes as wet blocks with or without seeds, and as ready paste or concentrate. It flavours sambar, rasam, puli kuzhambu, pulihora and imli chutney, as well as many Thai and Mexican dishes. Goraka, also called kodampuli or Malabar tamarind, comes dried, as paste, or as a smooth cream, and goes into ambul thiyal, fish curry and some pork curries.

Blocks give the truest flavour and keep for a year in a cool cupboard. Paste is quicker but more concentrated, so start with less and taste as you go. Dried goraka pieces last a long time if kept dry, while goraka paste and cream should be refrigerated once opened.

For dishes that already balance the sourness for you, look at Sri Lankan curry mixes, and for a sweeter way to enjoy tamarind, tamarind and date chutney.