Jam

Jam is fruit cooked with sugar until it sets. The British classics of strawberry, apricot and blackcurrant share this shelf with the tropical jams that South Asian families grew up eating. Mango and pineapple jams are favourites in India and Pakistan; mixed fruit jam is the standard school sandwich across the subcontinent. From Sri Lanka come passion fruit jam, bright and tart, and woodapple jam, made from divul, a hard-shelled fruit with a brown, tangy, almost tamarind-like pulp that many Sri Lankans remember from childhood. Melon jams flavoured with strawberry are another Sri Lankan bakery favourite.

Jam goes on buttered toast and roti, in butter and jam sandwiches, on scones with cream, and into Victoria sponge, Swiss roll, jam tarts and thumbprint biscuits. Sri Lankan bakers use it in jam biscuits and between the layers of ribbon cake, and a spoon of mango jam makes a quick glaze for cakes. Mixed fruit jam is the easy choice for children; woodapple and passion fruit are for those who like a sharper taste.

Always use a clean spoon, and once opened, keep jam in the fridge, where it will last for weeks. If a jar has set too firmly, warm a spoonful before spreading. Jam sits in breakfast and spreads alongside honey, peanut butter and spreads, and for Sri Lankan fruit in other forms see murabba and preserves.