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      Happy Navratri, with two garba dancers holding dandiya sticks

      NavratriPeanutsSago (Sabudana)SaltSnackVrat

      Sabudana vada

      Crisp sago and potato patties with crushed peanuts and green chilli, fried in peanut oil. The fasting teatime favourite.

      • Serves4 (makes about 16)
      • Prep25 min, plus 4 hours soaking
      • Cook20 min
      • From the shop4 items
      Sabudana vada, cooked and plated

      Sabudana vada should shatter at the edges and stay soft and chewy inside, with little pops of peanut in every bite. Small sago is the one to use here: it soaks quickly and binds tightly with the potato, so the vadas hold together in the oil without any flour.

      Many homes make these for the evening meal on a fasting day, though customs vary and some families keep fried food off the menu altogether during Navratri. Serve them hot with green chutney or sweetened yoghurt.

      Ingredients

      Method

      1. Rinse the sago three times in cold water until the water runs almost clear. Drain, add water just to the level of the pearls, cover and leave for 4 to 5 hours. A pearl is ready when it presses flat between your fingers with no hard centre. Tip into a sieve and leave to drain for 10 minutes.
      2. Boil the potatoes in their skins for about 20 minutes until a knife slides in easily. Peel and leave to cool completely. Warm potato turns the mixture sticky and the vadas soak up oil.
      3. Roast the peanuts in a dry pan over a medium-low flame for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring, until the skins crack and the nuts smell toasted. Tip them into a tea towel, rub off the skins and crush the nuts coarsely with a rolling pin or in a pestle and mortar.
      4. Mash the potatoes in a large bowl. Add the sago, peanuts, rock salt, chilli, ginger, sugar, lemon juice and coriander, and knead with your hand for a minute until it comes together like a soft dough.
      5. Wet your palms and shape the mixture into 16 balls, then press each one into a flat round about 5cm across and 1.5cm thick. Keep the edges smooth; cracks are where they split in the oil.
      6. Heat the oil in a kadai or deep pan to 170 to 175C. Without a thermometer, drop in a pinch of the mixture: it should rise steadily with small bubbles, not sit at the bottom or burn.
      7. Fry one vada first as a test. If it breaks up, mix another spoonful of mashed potato into the rest. Then fry four or five at a time for 4 to 5 minutes, turning once, until deep golden all over.
      8. Lift out onto kitchen paper and serve straight away.

      Cook's notes

      If the oil is too cool the vadas drink it and turn heavy; too hot and they brown before the middle cooks. The shaped vadas can sit in the fridge on a tray for a few hours before frying, which makes them firmer and easier to handle. For a lighter version, brush with a little peanut oil and air fry at 190C for 15 to 18 minutes, turning halfway.

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