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      Happy Navratri, with two garba dancers holding dandiya sticks

      AlmondsCardamomDessertMakhanaNavratriPure GheeVrat

      Makhana kheer

      Ghee-roasted lotus seeds simmered in slowly reduced milk with cardamom and almonds. A fasting dessert that needs no grain at all.

      • Serves4
      • Prep10 min
      • Cook35 min
      • From the shop4 items
      Makhana kheer, cooked and plated

      Rice kheer is off the table during the fast, and makhana kheer is what takes its place in many homes. Popped lotus seeds soften in hot milk and give the kheer body and a gentle nutty taste, while a few roasted whole ones stirred in at the end keep a little crunch.

      The secret is roasting the makhana in ghee first. Raw from the bag they turn spongy in milk; roasted, they stay pleasant to eat and thicken the kheer as they break down. Families sweeten kheer in different ways during the fast, so use your usual sugar or leave it lighter if that is your custom.

      Ingredients

      Method

      1. Cover the almonds with just-boiled water and leave for 15 minutes. Slip off the skins, or leave them on if you prefer, and cut into slivers.
      2. Melt the ghee in a heavy pan over a low flame. Add the makhana and roast for 6 to 8 minutes, stirring every half minute, until they are crisp right through. Test one: it should snap cleanly between your fingers. Keep back a small handful and crush the rest coarsely with a rolling pin.
      3. Pour the milk into a wide, heavy pan and bring it to the boil. Turn down to a steady simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom every couple of minutes, until it has reduced by about a quarter.
      4. Add the crushed makhana and simmer for 10 minutes, stirring often, until the pieces are soft and the kheer has started to thicken.
      5. Stir in the sugar, cardamom, almonds and saffron, if using, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the whole roasted makhana at the end so they keep some bite.
      6. Serve warm, or cool and chill for a few hours. The kheer thickens a good deal in the fridge; stir in a splash of cold milk if you want it looser.

      Cook's notes

      Add the sugar only once the makhana has softened, as sugar in the milk early on slows the softening. A wide pan reduces milk faster than a tall one and is less likely to catch. Kheer keeps for two days in a covered bowl in the fridge.

      Whole milk matters here. Semi-skimmed reduces to a thin, slightly grey kheer, while whole milk turns creamy and pale gold. If you have a little more time, simmer the milk for 25 minutes in step 3 and use 3 tbsp of sugar: the longer reduction brings out its own sweetness. Toasted cashews or a few chopped pistachios scattered over at the table are a good addition for guests.

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